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Best Exterior Wall Paint UK weather

We often get asked what is the best exterior wall paint for my house. Specifying the best high-performance wall coating for the walls of your home need not be a problem. Just follow our tips below, it could save you time and money and help look after the fabric of your home

With claims of 20 years + protection and performance against the UK’s worst of the weather elements choosing the right exterior wall coating for your house is a big decision. Here are the main things you should consider when choosing the right masonry paint for your house.Before you paint the exterior walls of your home we need to look at some other things

We have yet to meet anyone who disagrees that preparation like any job is vital to the success of any job. But you also need a plan or specification.If your house walls are rendered, and this is the same for pebbledash or roughcast (they are also rendered just finished differently).You need to establish what kind of condition the render is in. This is very easy to do. Firstly you can use the naked eye and you may well see bits hanging off areas that are blown, this can be seen as bulges in the render. Look at the top near the roofline, the gutters facias roof gulleys, hoppers, and if you have any the copings.These things often leak and cast water behind and into the render. All faulty rainwater goods such as fall pipes gutters hoppers etc (RWG) need seeing to and making good before any exterior wall coating renovation work takes place. Any coping stones on top of a wall, for instance, a parapet need to have sufficient overhang and the pointing between them needs to be in good order. If they are giving trouble you will see areas of damaged render directly below them and the coping stone joints

All4Walls top tip:

Next time it hammers it down get your raincoat on.Not many of us want to venture out when its absolutely pouring it down, but it’s a good MOT check for the roofline to see how it’s coping with the water drain off. You need to make sure it’s 100% you would be surprised how much damage even a little drip of water can do to render (and your new exterior wall paintwork!).Looking at the render is not enough, even solid looking render can deceive you. What can look solid can in actual fact be hanging off the wall (delaminated)

You need to hammer test it. This is what any respected trade person in the wall coating industry should do. It’s not rocket science all you need to do is gently tap the render with a small hammer, or slide it across the surface, you will distinctly hear the hollows in the render. If it’s pebbledash tap more than slide (and make sure the cars away from the few pebbles that may shed off the wall) The hollow reverberating sound of any blown areas which are damaged will be easy enough to determine. You need to make these areas good before painting the walls. If you apply paint over anything that’s loose, chances are it will give you problems. No matter how good the exterior wall paint or coating is supposed to be if the surface it’s going on top of comes off the wall, it’s going to fail, you cannot assume the paint finish is going to glue it (the loose render) on the wall.Although we come across clients who tell us some firms have claimed their coatings consolidate and weld the render to the wall, even the bits that are hanging off! beware of anyone who informs you that your render is in good condition and will patch repair, unless he has hammer tested the walls you just don’t know, even on new render!If the majority of the render appears to be solid then you can proceed to what we call a patch repair option, you have to decide this balance. Of course, one wall may be in need of extensive patch repairs or even a full removal while others are in a much better condition. The orientation of walls and the exposure to weather plays a bit part in this, with South/Westerly facing walls getting a jolly good battering from wind-driven rain.Repairing renders whats the best mortar mix?.If you are patch repairing the walls and the render is concrete (which it mostly will be) you could use the following mix.Go to the builder merchants and ask for some plastering sand (this is sharp and graded) also get some sharp sand ungraded washed river sand is good.Get some ordinary portland cement (OPC) mix at the following ratios.if you want to make polymer render get some latex SBR even B&Q sells this additive.Assuming you have chopped off and removed the loose render

For deep areas, you will need to build up in one or more coats. Your first coat can be four parts of the ungraded river sand to one part OPC with the latex which is added to the gauging water, (read the instructions) You can add some chopped glass fibre strands if you wish to the base coat (scratch) or any hair from the dog, seriously we use angora goat and horse hair on listed buildings, the renderers of yesterday knew what they were doing! the fibres make the mix less susceptible to slumping and give it strength.Moving on once you have trowel applied the render in the void, leave it about 5mm short of the surrounding render and using your trowel put a few light scratches or diamond patterns into it once its set a little.

Next day or whenever use the plastering and the graded stuff and mix at five parts plastering sand and one part OPC.You can if you wish,  add a small amount of the latex to the gauging water again. Don’t use any chopped fibre or hair into this mix or you will have hairy render! Trowel and shape the render flat to blend into the existing surrounding render. Leave this to go off a little and set, keep an eye on this as the sun wind etc can make it go off, it may not go off as quickly as the first coat of render you applied as there is less suction in the background material. Once its set a little but is still thumbprint green, in other words, you can leave a mark in it, use a wooden or plastic float which you can but from builder merchants or Wickes etc. a little water flicked on sprayed on will help work the render. Using small circular motions with the float level the render nice and flat, don’t overwork it if it will crack and fall out!leave it to set again and then just wipe the outer edges with s damp flat sponge to level off and clean.

We often get asked what is the best paint or exterior wall coating for my house. Specifying the best high-performance wall coating for the walls of your home need not be a problem. Just follow our tips below, it could save you time and money and help look after the fabric of your home With claims of 20 years + protection and performance against the UK’s worst of the weather elements choosing the right exterior wall coating for your house is a big decision. Here are the main things you should consider when choosing the right masonry paint for your house.Before you paint the exterior walls of your home we need to look at some other things

We have yet to meet anyone who disagrees that preparation like any job is vital to the success of any job. But you also need a plan or specification.If your house walls are rendered, and this is the same for pebbledash or roughcast (they are also rendered just finished differently).You need to establish what kind of condition the render is in. This is very easy to do. Firstly you can use the naked eye and you may well see bits hanging off areas that are blown, this can be seen as bulges in the render. Look at the top near the roofline, the gutters facias roof gulleys, hoppers, and if you have any the copings.These things often leak and cast water behind and into the render. All faulty rainwater goods such as fall pipes gutters hoppers etc (RWG) need seeing to and making good before any exterior wall coating renovation work takes place. Any coping stones on top of a wall, for instance, a parapet need to have sufficient overhang and the pointing between them needs to be in good order. If they are giving trouble you will see areas of damaged render directly below them and the coping stone joints

All4Walls top tip: Next time it hammers it down get your raincoat on.Not many of us want to venture out when its absolutely pouring it down, but it’s a good MOT check for the roofline to see how it’s coping with the water drain off. You need to make sure it’s 100% you would be surprised how much damage even a little drip of water can do to render (and your new exterior wall paintwork!) Looking at the render is not enough, even solid looking render can deceive you. What can look solid can in actual fact be hanging off the wall (delaminated)

You need to hammer test it. This is what any respected trade person in the wall coating industry should do. It’s not rocket science all you need to do is gently tap the render with a small hammer, or slide it across the surface, you will distinctly hear the hollows in the render. If it’s pebbledash tap more than slide (and make sure the cars away from the few pebbles that may shed off the wall) The hollow reverberating sound of any blown areas which are damaged will be easy enough to determine. You need to make these areas good before painting the walls. If you apply paint over anything that’s loose, chances are it will give you problems. No matter how good the exterior wall paint or coating is supposed to be if the surface it’s going on top of comes off the wall, it’s going to fail, you cannot assume the paint finish is going to glue it (the loose render) on the wall.Although we come across clients who tell us some firms have claimed their coatings consolidate and weld the render to the wall, even the bits that are hanging off! beware of anyone who informs you that your render is in good condition and will patch repair, unless he has hammer tested the walls you just don’t know, even on new render!If the majority of the render appears to be solid then you can proceed to what we call a patch repair option, you have to decide this balance. Of course, one wall may be in need of extensive patch repairs or even a full removal while others are in a much better condition. The orientation of walls and the exposure to weather plays a bit part in this, with South/Westerly facing walls getting a jolly good battering from wind-driven rain.Repairing render whats the best mortar mix.? If you are patch repairing the walls and the render is concrete (which it mostly will be) you could use the following mix.Go to the builder merchants and ask for some plastering sand (this is sharp and graded) also get some sharp sand ungraded washed river sand is good.Get some ordinary portland cement (OPC) mix at the following ratios.if you want to make your own polymer render get some latex SBR even B&Q sells this additive.Assuming you have chopped off and removed the loose render

For deep areas, you will need to build up in one or more coats. Your first coat can be four parts of the ungraded river sand to one part OPC with the latex which is added to the gauging water, (read the instructions) You can add some chopped glass fibre strands if you wish to the base coat (scratch) or any hair from the dog, seriously we use angora goat and horse hair on listed buildings, the renderers of yesterday knew what they were doing! the fibres make the mix less susceptible to slumping and give it strengthMoving on once you have trowel applied the render in the void, leave it about 5mm short of the surrounding render and using your trowel put a few light scratches or diamond patterns into it once its set a little.Next day or whenever use the plastering sand the graded stuff and mix at five parts plastering sand and one part OPC.You can if you wish,  add a small amount of the latex to the gauging water again. Don’t use any chopped fibre or hair into this mix or you will have hairy render! Trowel and shape the render flat to blend into the existing surrounding render. Leave this to go off a little and set, keep an eye on this as the sun wind etc can make it go off, it may not go off as quickly as the first coat of render you applied as there is less suction in the background material. Once its set a little but is still thumbprint green, in other words, you can leave a mark in it, use a wooden or plastic float which you can but from builder merchants or Wickes etc. a little water flicked on sprayed on will help work the render. Using small circular motions with the float level the render nice and flat, don’t overwork it if it will crack and fall out!leave it to set again and then just wipe the outer edges with s damp flat sponge to level off and clean. Once the repairs have cured you are ready to go to the next stage of painting your walls, they may need stabilising it’s always a good idea to disinfect and prime the walls. Why not get in touch with us to arrange a survey?